Lighting: | Full sun, slight shade in midsummer and in very hot climates to prevent leaf burn. |
Temperature: | Very weather resistant - thrives in zones 3 to 6, but may be grown in somewhat hotter areas if care is taken to prevent leaf-burn or dehydration. |
Watering: | Moderate - increase watering during the summer heat, and keep fairly dry in winter. |
Feeding: | Weekly for the first month after leafing out, then every two weeks through summer. Use bonsai fertilizer or half strength plant food. |
Repotting: | Repot in early spring, before bud burst, using a fast-draining soil mix. Young trees may need to be repotted annually. Otherwise, repot every two years, but not in the same year that the tree is defoliated. |
Styling: | Acer ginnala takes well to bonsai techniques. It buds back rapidly on old wood, and thus can be cut back quite hard. Its leaves will reduce to under one inch if it is defoliated once every two years in midsummer. New shoots should be pruned through the growing season. Acer ginnala may be wired, but like other maples, may require some protection of the bark. |
Propagation: | Cuttings, seed, air-layering. |
I have, what I call, a Japanese Maple. I've made a grove of 5 and they have been in a dish since 1989. Is it time to re-pot, root prune or what? They are outside all year in partial shade.
I have, what I call, a Japanese Maple. I've made a grove of 5 and they have been in a dish since 1989. Is it time to re-pot, root prune or what? They are outside all year in partial shade.
================================================================= Date: Tue, 13 Aug 1996 22:21:46 -0700 From: weiser@foothills.eznet.com (Marty & Patty Weiser) I have found amur maple to be a great tree for bonsai. Some have said they are a good cold weather alternative to trident maple and I agree. They generally grow quite strongly, the leaves are realtively small, and it is quite hardy. I don't think I have lost any to freezing and the only ones I have lost to heat were due to forgetting to water or planting in a very shallow container right off. I have seen growth of as many as 15 to 20 pairs of leaves in a season with approximately 1.3 cm (0.5 in) internodes. I plant mine in a realtively coarse mixture and water heavily with fairly heavy fertilizer. Mine have budded back from old wood - in fact the buds can be a nusence (sp?). Of cours I also have A. truncatum and A. tarticum (sp?) which are quite similar. Marty Marty & Patty Weiser Spokane, WA USA weiser@eznet.com ================================================================= From: IASNOBDate: Thu, 14 Mar 96 06:51:00 Acer ginnala is much more frost resistant than the Acer buergerianum. Defoliation of this specimen can be a powerful technique when judiciously applied to a bonsai to (1) replace the leaves with new, smaller leaves for maximal fall color and (2) to control the development of portions of the specimen. As a yearly practice, the cumulative effect can result in a substantially weakened bonsai--one which might be more profoundly affected by the effects of disease and fungus over time. I would recommend that complete defoliation (leaf cutting) be practiced every other year in mid summer. Defoliation for the purposes of slowing or speeding the growth of specific branches can be practiced as required. Also, after repotting, it is best to wait until the following year to resume the defoliation schedule--defoliating the bonsai at that time can interfere with the reestablishment of the root system. With this said, defoliation ultimately is a practice based on the artist's design and aesthetic objectives. Cordially, Michael Persiano
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